Interview #1: Vittorio Frescobaldi, Tuscan winemaking family's Gen. 31

This interview is the first of many with fellow winemakers, viticulturists, or other interesting people in wine. We’re going to kick it off with one of my best friends: Vittorio Frescobaldi of the famous Frescobaldi family, winemaking empire in Tuscany, Italy. Vitto is a suave-dresser, dancemeister, prosciutto connoisseur, and all around really good dude. 

Last fall, I had the opportunity to visit many of the Frescobaldi estates, notably Nipozzano, Luce della Vite, Ornellaia and Masseto, Pomino, and Castel Giocondo. Being as much a skeptic about Tuscany as I am about Bordeaux, I assumed his family's wineries were the new-age technology-focused, yeast additions, enzyme additions, etc. type to make the cleanest, high-quality wine. However, I was completely blown away by the domaines' adherence to traditional minimalism in the cellar and sustainable practices! In fact, most of the Frescobaldi estates practice organic viticulture and some are experimenting with biodynamics. Many use pied de cuves and native yeast fermentations and do not add bacteria or enzymes. Of course, the wine was fantastic as well. My personal favorite was the 2015 barrel tasting of Luce, a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 40% Merlot, in Montalcino.

Barrel tasting the Luce with Vitto and winemaker, Filippo Manni.

Background:

Vitto is 25 years old. He grew up in Florence, then moved to New England in the US for 6 years for boarding school and university before arriving to my Masters in Bordeaux. Last summer, Vitto interned at Chateau Latour in Pauillac and subsequently confirmed that production was not for him. In the wine world, he is more interested by imports and negociant affairs. In the future, he hopes to increase the availability of the Frescobaldi wines on the shelves of stores throughout the world.  

INTERVIEW

Alright, Vitto, let's get started!

(Le bise, glass of wine in hand at our favorite wine bar in the St. Michel district of Bordeaux: Julo).

Despite drinking wine with fur-lined mittens, he's a really down to earth guy, I swear!!!

Tell me a bit about the Frescobaldi family and its involvement in wine.

Vitto: Well that's a long story that spans 800 years but here's a summary... The Frescobaldis originally moved from Germany to Florence in 1000. At the time, they were all bankers and in the 1300s, they lost everything. They decided to go into the wine business and are rumored to have traded wine with Michelangelo and the royal family. After the 1300s, their wine business grew exponentially and in the mid-1800s the daughter from another big winemaking family in Tuscany, the Albizzis, married a Frescobaldi. This further expanded the Frescobaldi reach in the Tuscany. More recently, my grandfather, also Vittorio, was the one who really took the family business to the next level. My grandfather became the President of the company at age 25, made the right investments in wineries all over Tuscany, and really created the Frescobaldi family company that it is today.

You are what generation Frescobaldi?

 Vitto: 31st generation

And you want to join the family business?  

Vitto: Yes and no. Of course, I will always have a connection to my family business but right now, I want to make my own path. I'd like to stay in Bordeaux; it is relaxed here and I love the lifestyle. I see a lot of potential here as well in terms of improving the market and increasing the amount of international choice at wine stores. I would love to increase the Italien wine availability here. 

What challenges do you see for the future in the wine business? The marketplace, our generation. What do you think our generation wants from wine and wine producer? 

Vitto: That is an interesting question. You know, I think that our generation is obsessed with being healthy. The market is leaning more towards organic products, wine with low sulfites. For Frescobaldi, many of our wines are certified organic or biodynamic but we don't put the label on the bottle. For me, the label looks too much like a marketing plow. We want to produce a wine with less pesticides but also let the wine speak for itself.

What is your favorite Frescobaldi wine?

Vitto: It's a tough call but I'll go with Nipozzano. For me, this wine is a classic and representative of my family itself and its history. Nipozzano is a Chianti Rufina, 75% Sangiovese and 25% a mixture of indigenous varietals.

And if not drinking Frescobaldi...?

Vitto: Bordeaux. Probably Medoc or St. Emilion.

Alright, Rapid Fire set. 

Red or white. V: Red.

Bordeaux or Tuscany. V: Tuscany.

Latour or Ornellaia. V: Haha, I've got to go with Ornellaia on this one.

US or France. V: Italy. Oh, wasn't an option? haha, France.

US or Italy. V: Italy.

Finally, the most-informative question of your personality... If banished to a desert island but you get to choose 3 foods and 1 wine to live off for the rest of your life, what would they be?

Vitto: Prosciutto, Magret de Canard (*duck speciality of Bordeaux), and a Florentine steak. Wine-wise, I'm going to go with a 2010 Castelgiacondo Brunello.

Ok, not a vegetarian, I guess... Cool, thanks for letting me interview you! Now pour me another glass please.